02.09.2012

Coffee in Gakenke


It is Wednesday, August 22. Fernanda and I have finally arranged our field trip to Gakenke, where we want to talk to different people about the Coffee Task Force in their district, a forum for all actors related to the coffee sector. Today, Antoine is driving us. We take the road in the direction to Musanze, but turn before reaching there, into a smaller red road. 
The first stop is at the district office and we are already being expected. We talk to the vice mayor in charge of economic affaires and a technician at the same time and I am positively surprised. They have actually gone through the questionnaire we have sent them in advance, discussed the questions and prepared answers. According to them, it has helped them to think about what is happening. That is probably the best feedback we have ever received. Despite the prepared answers, we still have a good interview, asking for additional information and receiving detailed answers and examples. They also promise to translate and summarise reports for us and arrange for us to meet two members of the Coffee Task Force, two cooperatives. The technician explains the way to get there to our driver Antoine and we set off, following small roads leading away from the main town in the district, to other sectors. This is a real field trip. We have to ask for the way several times and it takes longer than expected to find the places, but I don’t mind. I like these rides.
Both cooperatives have a coffee washing station and guide us through the process of washing the coffee cherries, selecting and drying the coffee beans. At both stations we speak French, although it is difficult to understand their strong accent. It is interesting to see how the coffee cherries are processed, but we do not get the information we actually want, information about the coffee task force. Although they are members, they can’t really say much about the forum. The language barrier is a bad excuse. At the second washing station we are not talking to the cooperative’s president, but workers of the washing station, but still we are disappointed by the result. Maybe this is an answer in itself. At least we see a lot. The guys we meet at the second washing stations also show us one of their plantations and explain techniques they have learned from other members of the coffee task force. We part from the cooperatives, thanking them for their time and then head back to Kigali. It is afternoon already and we didn’t eat yet, but I expect to pass that place on the road between Musanze and Kigali, where we can buy grilled potatoes and the like. We passed there on our way to come here, so it should be the same on our way back. However, that is not the case. Instead of going back to the main, tarmac road, Antoine chooses to go through the field, using the small roads only. It takes some time for me to realise that because he doesn’t say anything. I am surprised, but enjoy the bumpy ride. The scenery is beautiful and we are lucky with the weather as well. Away from bigger villages, we have great views across hills and valleys, enrolling endlessly before us.  Now, I see more coffee plantations. After some time, having gone up and done a couple of hills, we find ourselves in a broad valley, next to a river that we follow. It is a big river with brown water, fields to its left and right. There are banana plantations and sugar cane. In some places, the sugar cane has been cut and is piled at the side of the road, waiting to be transported to Kigali. The window is open and wind blows into my face, messing up my hair. I know that it is now full of dust and I will have troubles brushing it. I don’t care. This is a wonderful last field trip. Only shortly before arriving in Kigali, we reach the tarmac road. I recognise the junction. To the left Kigali, to the right Gitarama. We must have made something like a big circle northwest of Kigali. I make a note in my head to check on the map.